♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Today on "America's Test Kitchen," Bridget and Julia share the secrets to the ultimate beef tenderloin... Jack challenges Bridget to a tasting of turkey... and Dan makes Julia foolproof turkey breast en cocotte with pan gravy.

It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."

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♪♪ -Beef tenderloin is the perfect cut for a dinner party.

It's quick to cook, mild in flavor, and as advertised by the name, it is tender.

But dinner guests do not live by beef alone.

Potatoes, whether you make them mashed or roasted -- they are a natural match, but that means some last-minute cooking.

-Mm-hmm, until today.

I have to tell you, this recipe is one of my all-time favorites because it's a one-pot meal.

The potatoes and the beef tenderloin cook in the same pot, and, you know, everybody loves tenderloin -- from grandparents to kids, everyone's pleased with this meal.

-Yeah, you get some medium-rare cuts right in the middle, and then ends are a little bit more towards medium, so it kind of satisfies everyone.

-You got it.

All right, this is a three-pound center-cut beef tenderloin.

Now we're just gonna season it with a little salt and pepper, and here I have 2 and 1/4 teaspoons of salt.

This is a teaspoon of black pepper, and our super-secret magic ingredient -- baking soda.

This is a teaspoon of baking soda, and of course, that raises the pH, which encourages browning.

So, I'm just gonna whisk this together.

Pat this roast dry, and I'm gonna season it.

Here we go, nice and liberally.

You want to make sure you get it on all sides, and it's okay if you get it on the board.

You know what I do?

I kind of use the roast as a little bench scraper and just make sure it gets seasoned even on the ends.

So, that's coated nice and even, and now we're just gonna tie it.

It is a pretty uniform cut of meat, but tying helps to ensure that it cooks through a little more evenly.

I'm gonna start in the center and just make double knot the first time, go around the string twice -- that helps it stay in place for that second knot.

-It's great for holiday wrapping as well.

-[ Laughs ] All right, now I'm just gonna work my way outwards.

-Did you ever work at a rodeo?

-[ Laughs ] I do know how to wrangle a good piece of beef.

So, that's about an inch and 1/2 between the ties.

I'm gonna trim off the long ends -- give them a little haircut.

Now we're gonna let this roast sit for about an hour.

That'll allow the salt to do its magic and make the meat more tender.

-Just right at room temperature.

-Just right at room temperature.

-Now, it might sound counterintuitive, but salting meat retains its overall moisture.

It just needs time.

At first, salting the surface of the cut naturally draws moisture outward.

If you roast the tenderloin too soon after salting, that drawn-out moisture will evaporate and sure enough, the meat will be dry and disappointing, but if you give the salt and meat enough time, the super-concentrated moisture near the surface will seek equilibrium, move back into the meat, and bring the salt with it.

The salt causes the muscle proteins to swell, ensuring a juicy tenderloin.

So, make sure you give the salt enough time to work its magic.

-All right, so it's time to get cooking, and we're gonna start with the potatoes.

-Nice.

I thought we were gonna play ball.

-[ Laughs ] No, we're gonna use little red potatoes 'cause they're lovely and creamy, and they hold their shape during roasting, and also, when they're in the bottom of the pan, they act like a rack for the roast.

So, I have two tablespoons of olive oil heating up in this roasting pan over these two burners, at about medium-high heat.

You can see that oil is just starting to shimmer, so here I'm gonna add five scallions, four cloves of garlic, a tablespoon of smoked paprika -- just adds a little something special to the potatoes 'cause that's an expensive piece of meat.

-And you're blooming it in oil, which is really going to enhance this flavor.

-Mm-hmm.

A little bit of salt -- that's 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

And 1/4 teaspoon of black pepper.

And now we're gonna add our potatoes.

This is three pounds of red potatoes.

Of course we gave them a good scrub beforehand.

We're just gonna cook this for about a minute, really to help bloom those aromatics.

Mmm, can't you smell that paprika?

Ooh, and you're starting to smell the garlic.

-This is gonna go great with beef.

-Mm-hmm.

All right, so you can see, we're starting to get some fond on the bottom of the pan, so I'm gonna turn off the heat and add 1/2 cup of water.

This does two things -- helps scrape up the fond so we get all that flavor on the potatoes.

It's also gonna create a little steam when we roast these potatoes to help them start cooking.

All right, so we're gonna put these in the oven.

This is a 425-degree oven.

We're gonna give these potatoes a 15-minute head start.

Ooh, you can smell that little bit of smoked paprika.

-Ooh, smells so good.

-If you wouldn't mind turning that oven down to 300 degrees, please.

-All right.

-Those potatoes have had a 15-minute head start.

-Oh, yeah.

-And now it's time to add our beef tenderloin, so I'm just gonna give it a quick brush with a tablespoon of olive oil.

Don't forget the ends.

All right, so now, as I said before, we're gonna use the potatoes as a rack, so I'm just gonna push them into the middle, and I'm gonna take this pretty guy, put him right on top.

-Genius.

-I know, right?

So, this is gonna go back into a 300-degree oven for about 45 to 55 minutes.

The key is that the center of the roast is gonna register between 120 and 125 degrees -- that's for medium-rare.

And of course, halfway through cooking, I'm gonna spin the roast around so it cooks evenly.

All right, so that beef is still in the oven, but now it's time to make one of my all-time favorite sauces, and I've been pronouncing it wrong for many years.

I've been calling it "per-sill-ahd" sauce, but actually, it's persillade sauce.

-Much more fancy that way.

-Persillade.

-Persillade.

-Yes, but regardless of what you call it, it is delicious.

I put it on eggs, I put it on tempeh, and of course, beef.

-All right.

-So, it starts with parsley, and this is 3/4 cup of chopped parsley, and that's our base.

And to this we're gonna add a scallion, and we're gonna want to mince it.

And what you want to do when you mince a scallion is -- this root end is pretty thick, so I like to quarter it, and then if there's any big green parts, I just cut them in half.

And then you can just mince it really nicely.

All right, one minced scallion.

Next up -- cornichons, which is French for "fancy, little pickle."

-Tiny gherkins.

-Yes, and they're delicious.

We just want to mince these up.

That's about six tablespoons of cornichons.

These look pretty good.

And we're gonna also add a little bit of that cornichon juice 'cause that's good flavor -- very pickly, a little salty.

-So good.

-So, this is a teaspoon of the cornichon juice.

Next up -- some capers, and of course, we rinsed these already to get rid of some of that extra brine.

This is 1/4 cup.

I'm just gonna give these a quick chop.

They're already pretty small, but we really want to crush them open so you can really taste them.

-So, you're not quartering each one.

-[ Laughs ] Not today.

-[ Laughs ] -That's pretty good.

Into the bowl they go.

To this we're gonna add a little garlic.

This is three cloves of minced garlic.

Little bit of sugar to sort of balance all that brininess of the cornichons and the capers.

This is a teaspoon of sugar.

Last but not least, a little salt.

This is 1/4 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon of pepper.

-Yeah, I'm all for sugar when it's used as a seasoning similar to salt and pepper.

It just balances out flavors that way.

-Mm-hmm.

All right, I'm just gonna mix this up, and then what's gonna hold it together and really turn it into a relish is some olive oil.

So, I have 1/2 cup of really good extra virgin olive oil here.

Pour this in.

To tell you the truth, whenever I make this, sometimes I just eat it right off the spoon.

It's so good -- all those fresh, sort of briny flavors.

-Mm-hmm.

-And that is it -- persillade, or as I like to say, "per-sill-ahd" sauce.

-[ Laughs ] -Oh, it smells so good.

-Mm-hmm.

Aright, so again, we're looking for a temperature between 120 and 125 for medium-rare right there in the center.

-I'm telling you, it doesn't matter what it actually reads -- I'm gonna eat it.

-[ Laughs ] Nailed it!

We're right on.

So, we're gonna let this rest for about 15 minutes.

Let those juices redistribute.

Of course we're gonna tent it with foil to help trap the heat in.

And now back to these potatoes.

Now, sometimes if you see the pan getting a little dry in the oven, don't hesitate to add a little water.

I'm gonna tent them as well so that they stay nice and warm.

All right, so this beef has been resting for 15 minutes, so I'm just gonna get rid of these pieces of twine.

A pair of scissors is ideal for this 'cause it really can get under the twine, which kind of bakes into the meat during roasting.

-The browning of this beef is pretty tremendous.

We did not sear this in the pan.

It's all nice and brown -- that's from the baking soda.

-That's right.

It's time to slice this roast up, and now I'm not gonna slice it very thin, but also not into thick steaks -- somewhere in the middle, about 1/2 inch slices.

Oh-oh-ohh.

Look at this meat -- so juicy, perfectly rosy throughout, almost no gray band.

-No.

-And again, that's 'cause we didn't brown it, so we saved a step and made perfectly rosy meat.

All right, so a nice piece for you.

And now we've kept these potatoes warm under the foil over here.

-Ohh.

-Oh, yeah.

Last but not least, my favorite sauce.

-Persillade.

-Fit for a king.

-This is beautiful.

I mean, it's a special occasion meal, but actually I would eat this just about any night of the week.

-Mmm.

-You don't need a fork, certainly don't need a knife -- just a spoon.

It's that tender.

-Mm-hmm.

And the potatoes with that little bit of smoked paprika just gives them a little something special.

Well, our one-pan wonder starts by seasoning and tying a center-cut beef tenderloin.

Cook new potatoes and scallions with smoked paprika right in the roasting pan, add water, and give the potatoes a head start in the oven.

Top with the roast, and return to the oven, and slice and serve with a quick persillade.

So, from our test kitchen to your kitchen, an easy and elegant one-pan beef tenderloin with smokey potatoes and persillade relish.

♪♪ Last year, Americans bought 68 million turkeys between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Now, I'd say that roast turkey is the most anticipated if not challenging main course of the year, so Jack is gonna tell us which turkey is worth cooking for the holiday table.

-Bridget, you need a good recipe, but there's nothing you can do if you buy a bad turkey.

-True.

-And we tasted eight turkeys, and four of them we would not recommend.

-Really?

-Yeah.

And I've got a couple of them here for you, unfortunately.

-Can't wait.

-We did find four that we loved.

Tuck in.

-All right.

-You've got some dark meat as well as well as some white meat.

The biggest problems were that some of the brands were both dry and wet.

That was because a lot of the turkeys are what they call pre-basted, which is, of course, they're not brushing anything on the outside.

They're injecting broth, chemicals, salt, and all these other things into the turkey.

-It makes it mushy.

It makes it soft.

So, the first thing is texture.

You want it to be moist, but not soggy and not mushy.

These have all been salted for 24 hours -- the ones that were not treated with salt.

Air dried them all, and we roasted them all per our recipe, and so the cooking is exactly the same here.

We found that when we added our own salt, we ended up with basically the same salt level, so we didn't really have any problems that the injected ones or the pre-basted were too salty.

You just don't want to, obviously, brine or salt those before you cook them.

The big problem was that they just didn't have a great texture.

The second problem is some of them had some off flavors.

So, they're injecting things into the turkey and in some cases, it said, "Well, is this fishy, that they injected, or something else?"

[ Laughing ] -That tastes like a tuna fish sandwich.

Without the bread.

-[ Laughs ] That's probably not a good thing.

-No.

-So, you've been sampling.

-Mm-hmm.

-Anything that's immediately standing out to you that's good or bad?

-This one -- very moist, but I'm trying to figure out if it's moist or wet, which there is a fine line between the two.

This one, the dark meat -- almost flavorless.

Really having a hard time, actually, differentiating it between it and the breast meat here.

-You know, the dark meat really should have three, four, five times the amount of fat that is in the white meat, and if they bred the turkey so that there's very little fat in the entire bird, you get very little flavor.

-This particular one -- actually, I think this might be my favorite because the dark meat almost has a metallic flavor to it that is quite pleasant.

-Yeah, I would say minerally.

How does that sound?

-I like that better.

-But, you know, the dark meat does have those metallic or minerally notes that are gamey.

-Mm-hmm.

Mm-hmm.

-I mean, that's what the dark meat should have.

And for people who don't like that, that's what that breast meat is there for.

-This is my favorite.

This is my second.

Third and fourth are tied at the bottom.

So, this is my favorite.

-You chose the winner.

-Yay!

-This is Mary's Free Range.

It has what I would call old-fashioned turkey flavor.

-It does.

It tastes like Thanksgiving should.

-Yes, absolutely the best choice.

-All right.

-I'm surprised, Bridget.

As much as I'm excited that you got the winner, the Butterball was at the very bottom of the rankings.

-It's a little mushy here on the dark meat, but I like how seasoned it is.

-Well, it is well-seasoned.

[ Laughing ] -Well, hopefully these two cancel out each other a little bit.

So, this... -This is the Jennie-O.

-Okay.

-This was the top-rated of the pre-basted turkeys.

-Interesting.

Yeah.

-We didn't like it that much, but if you wanted to go that route and didn't want to salt or brine the bird, we thought this was the best option.

Still not our favorite by far, but... -Yeah, it's kind of nondescript.

-And I'm surprised.

This is Plainville Farms.

-Oh!

-This is from upstate New York.

It's the runner-up.

The winner, Mary's, is from California.

-Hmm.

No, still don't like it.

[ Laughing ] -You sure?

I can't make you keep on eating that?

-Well, there you go.

The best turkey according to "America's Test Kitchen" and me is Mary's Free Range Non-GMO Verified Turkey, and the price is $2.59 per pound.

♪♪ -Today, we're roasting a turkey breast, and believe it or not, we aren't gonna brine it.

Instead, we're gonna cook it in a pot with a tight-fitting lid, which the French call cocotte.

And that tight-fitting lid is important because it prevents the liquid from evaporating during cooking, and this creates a very moist, gentle cooking environment inside the pot and produces some really flavorful drippings.

When you cook in the pot, it's known as cooking en cocotte, and today, Dan's gonna show us how it's done.

-I'm very excited that we're free from brining now.

-[ Chuckles ] -It's gonna be a very, very simple recipe, and it's gonna start with a six to seven pound bone-in turkey breast.

-Big guy.

-Big guy.

We can't fit a whole turkey in a pot, so we're just gonna go with the breast, but this method -- because it's so gentle -- it really does a nice thing for the white meat.

So, we're gonna start by first taking off these ribs.

So, I'm just gonna use some shears to do this, and I'm gonna follow along the bottom of the breast and cut right through these ribs.

-And a good pair of poultry shears are worth their weight in gold for this.

-They are the best tool for this job, definitely.

So, I'm gonna go down here, and then I'm gonna flip it like this, kind of snip in, and then there's a bone that connects right here -- that kind of goes out towards the wing -- and a lot of times and like on this one, it's still on there, so I'm just gonna take this and push down like that.

It's a very satisfying sound if you like breaking down poultry.

And then I'm just gonna go in between and take this off.

Okay.

You can take this chance to, you know, trim up any areas that don't look good -- if there's too much skin in one place.

This recipe, because it's cooked in a wet environment, the skin doesn't get super crispy, so this is not so much a skin-focused recipe where we're gonna jump through hoops to get it really crispy.

We want the meat to be extra juicy.

Okay, so now I'm just gonna take some paper towels and pat it dry on all sides, So, I'm gonna use some Kosher salt.

-Do you want me to do the pepper since you're Turkey-hands?

-I would love that, yes.

Thank you.

-Mm-hmm.

Happy to help.

All right.

-Awesome, all right.

Let me do a flip here, and you can start peppering.

I'll follow you with some salt.

All right, there we go.

Got a nice coating.

I've got a couple tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil over medium-high heat until it just starts smoking.

That sounds good, doesn't it?

-Mm-hmm.

-And I'm putting this in breast-side down.

And now we're gonna add a bunch of aromatics, so we've got one onion here.

And these are just sprinkled right around the bird.

I also have one carrot, one celery rib, and then we've got six cloves of garlic, two pretty, little thyme sprigs, and finally, one bay leaf.

-Last but not least.

-Last but not least.

So, I kind of like to stir these around and get them in that nice oil.

I'm gonna sear it this way so the skin gets nice and brown, and sometimes you have to tilt it a little bit in order to get the skin on all parts nice and brown, and that's gonna take 12 to 16 minutes.

The vegetables gonna get nice and brown as well, and we're gonna get a really nice fond on the bottom of our pan.

-Gotcha, and the fond is important for the gravy.

-Exactly.

This is all about the gravy.

Mmm, smell that.

-You can really smell the change between the raw vegetables and now that they're cooked.

Starting to smell a little like Thanksgiving around here.

-Right?

So, the vegetables have really reduced down in size.

They've given up tons of liquid, and they've started to brown.

And I've really moved the turkey breast around as I've cooked so that we get good browning on all sides.

Now it's time to flip.

I'm gonna go in here with tongs and a wooden spoon.

This is the hardest part of the recipe, probably.

You just take your time.

Beautiful.

Nice color.

-Mmm.

-Okay, so here's where the magic happens.

We're gonna turn off the heat.

We're gonna take our foil, and we're gonna put it over the top.

We're gonna make a really nice seal.

So, it's great if you have a really heavy pot here 'cause the lid sits really nicely on top, and it traps all that moisture inside.

Even if you do, it's still nice to put a piece of foil on here.

It kind of fills in those gaps, and it protects it a little bit more.

-Mm-hmm.

It also makes it more fool-proof.

So, if you had a not-so-heavy lid, it would still seal in all that moisture.

-Exactly.

So, we're gonna just go around here and crimp this in.

We're gonna go into the oven about an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters.

-Awesome.

-And it's actually really low -- about 250 degrees, which, for turkey roasting, is really low.

Normally we're up around 400 degrees and our goal is to get browning and really crisp skin.

Here, all we want is super juicy turkey meat, so going nice and low like that is gonna keep it very, very moist.

So, it's been about 90 minutes, and I'm gonna take it out.

-Ooh.

-We're gonna temp it over there.

So, it's going here.

165 is what we're looking for.

-Mm-hmm.

-On the nose.

Okay, so that's fantastic.

We're gonna get it out of the pot here.

-I have to say, getting it out of the pot is one of the hardest parts about this recipe.

-That's the only hard part of this recipe -- is maneuvering the turkey around.

-Yep, yep.

-Absolutely.

We're gonna slide in my tongs underneath here.

I find that's good -- give myself lots of support.

And then I'm just gonna use the wooden spoon as kind of a stopper there.

-Mm-hmm.

-Pick it up and pop it down on our board.

Now we got to tent it with foil, and I'm gonna slide this out of the way so we can deal with our broth.

So, this is really intensely flavored stuff.

We've got that good browning from the skin on there, and we've trapped everything in the pot.

So, I'm putting this over medium-high heat, and we're gonna cook it down, and that's gonna take about 15 to 20 minutes.

And it's gonna smell really good while we're doing that.

All right, so this has been going for about 15 minutes.

-Aw, it smells even more intense than when it first came out of the oven.

-We've got a good amount of fat in here, and that's the perfect base for our roux.

So, I'm going to dust over a 1/4 cup of all-purpose flour.

The fat really helps with preventing lumpy gravy 'cause that fat's gonna coat all the particles of flour so they're not going to clump together.

We're gonna cook this for about two to five minutes.

We want to get some good color on it.

Okay, it's nice and dark.

-Mm-hmm.

-You can see that fond on the bottom there.

We're gonna scrape all that up with four cups of chicken broth.

So, the key here is to add it gradually and whisk a lot.

-Because if you add the broth all at once and try to whisk it vigorously, you'll wind up with a lumpy gravy, but if you add it slowly and whisk as you go, that's how you get a smooth gravy.

-So, once you've got about two cups in -- about halfway -- you've diluted it enough that the rest can go in a lot more quickly.

-That looks good.

-It does look good, doesn't it?

So, I'm also gonna go in with my wooden spoon and just scrape around the corners.

There's lots of fond, and as it gets moist, you can kind of scrape it back up into the sauce.

Okay, so I got most of that incorporated.

So, I'm gonna bring this up to a simmer, and we're gonna cook it till it's a nice gravy consistency -- about 2 1/2 cups -- and that takes 10 to 15 minutes.

-All right.

-This smells so good.

-It looks amazing.

-I'm gonna shut the heat off.

So, this is 2 1/2 cups here.

It's reduced down.

It's nice and thickened, and that flour gave it a lot of good body, all we got to do is strain this now.

-All right.

I know from experience this is a two-person job.

-I was gonna ask for your help.

Thank you.

That's perfect.

-So, yeah, let me hold the pot, and you can strain it.

Now I can't see what's going on, so you tell me if I'm tipping it too much.

-I'll tell you if you go too crazy.

Nope, a little bit more.

Little bit more.

That's great.

I'm just gonna use this ladle to help things along.

You can keep going just a little bit more.

Excellent.

Make sure I get all that out.

-That gravy is where it's at.

-Perfect, that's great.

So, we're gonna get back to the turkey here.

-Ooh, that is so not a looker.

-It's not a looker.

-No, and that's the point here.

It's not about the skin -- it's about the meat underneath the skin.

-That's right.

So, what I'm gonna do is just find the breastbone.

It runs right through the middle there.

When I get to this point, I like to just take a little peek inside and make sure I'm following the right path.

-That bone at the bottom there has an unusual curve, so taking a peek means you can really navigate it easily.

-All right, that comes right off.

All right, so I'm gonna use my knife and just get right underneath the skin there so I can peel it back.

-Very elegantly done.

-I'm just gonna cut nice, thick slices.

We're not making sandwiches, right?

We're making dinner.

And you got to see how juicy that is.

-Oh, look at that.

-Nice and low and slow.

You get the best results.

And Julia, I'm gonna give you the center cut -- the big center-cut pieces.

-Ooh.

May I pour a little gravy on top of yours?

-Yes.

-Ohh... -Oh, that looks beautiful.

-Mmm-mmm-mmm-mmm.

-It's so good.

-It's the best turkey breast and gravy ever.

This turkey makes wonderful leftovers because it's so moist.

It's moist the next day when it's cold.

It does make great sandwiches.

Dan, this is absolutely delicious.

Thank you.

-You're welcome.

-For the juiciest roast turkey breast, cook it en cocotte.

Brown a bone-in turkey breast with a few aromatics, cover the pot with foil then the lid, and cook it in a 250-degree oven.

Then, use the drippings to make a flavorful gravy.

So, from "America's Test Kitchen" to your kitchen, an amazing recipe for turkey breast en cocotte and pan gravy.

You can find this recipe along with all the recipes, tastings, and testings from this season at our website, americastestkitchen.com.

-I would eat this year-round.

-Yeah.

-Not even Thanksgiving.

-This is a Sunday dinner for me.

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